Monday, May 24, 2010

Day 2- Short update

This morning I woke up and took my first shower in more days than I should probably admit. We ate a light breakfast at the house and headed to the office around 9ish. Jessica gave us a brief overview of some office work and house rules. We are waiting for our last two interns, Lydia and Lauren, to arrive before really getting into separating out tasks and setting more specific goals for PLC work. Can't wait to see them tomorrow!

I did figure out for sure that I will get to teach some English here- more to come on this when I have details.

After leaving the office and grabbing a bite to eat, we headed back to the house for a little siesta followed by "Interlocution" possibly soon to be renamed "Fireside Chat." This basically consists of a casual discussion on different specific topics. I'm really looking forward to having these very often!

These last few hours we have spent sitting and talking with an amazing man who hand-makes the Klash that PLC sells to fund life-saving heart surgeries in Iraq. It was a great experience to hear about politics affecting Kurdistan and Iraq from an Iraqi Kurd rather than some talking head on an american news show. Especially a 40 year old Iraqi Kurd who has lived through and experienced Iraq from post-british/nationalized petroleum/relatively safe to the Iraq-Iran war to the gassing of Kurds to the Gulf War to the US invasion and everything beyond/in-between.

It's about 11 here and I'm falling asleep in this chair, so I am going to call it a night. I promise updates will be coming with more pictures/stories/thoughts and not just a rehash of what I did all day. We have been very busy getting settled in and learning and adjusting, so I promise as we get used to life here my posts will have more content. Thanks for reading!



Xua hafîz.

Alex


Sunday, May 23, 2010

Day 1 in Iraqi Kurdistan

An overview of today:

Slept in until about ten (traveling from US to Iraq = lots of tired interns). Got up and ate some delicious pumpkin bread with chocolate chips provided by the amazing Jessica Courtney, followed by a crash course in Kurdish "don'ts." We then walked a couple blocks to a delicious restaurant where we had rice, kebabs, tomatoes, beans, cucumber, some amazing stew I've never heard of, and fantastic bread. Next we returned to the house and prepared for our scavenger hunt- splitting into two teams we went into the town with nothing but a list of "essential" and "optional" tasks.

Sophie, Preston, Joshua, and I left the house and walked around the corner to the market to exchange ten US dollars for ~12,000 dinar. Walking back out to the bridge (the name of which I still cannot pronounce) we passed up on about five full busses before finally working up the courage to squeeze ourself onto one and head for the bazaar. Please note: at this point we are four extremely out of place Americans in Sulaymaniyah for the first time, who can say "Dest xosh" (thank you), "Choni? Bashi?" (Hello, how are you?), "Nexer" - short version "Na" (no), and Bale (yes) - all pronounced horribly, no doubt. Sounds a bit like a recipe for disaster- but our day turned out to be the opposite!

On the bus (and thanks to Preston's initiation with "Choni? Bashi?") we met our new friend Hajin (that is spelled completely wrong, I promise you) who spoke great English and was just a super nice guy. He gave up much of his afternoon to walk around the huge, amazing, huge, (did I say huge?) bazaar with us, showing us around and teaching us, and even buying us smoothies and helping with some negotiating! In the (huge) bazaar we bought ASIAcell sim cards, a few cell phones (got Hajin's number!), some Samon (tasty bread- one loaf costs about 10 cents), saw a road completely filled with gold vendors, saw a squirrel with a necklace for sale, met a Klash maker/seller (p.s. you can buy Klash and all profits will go towards helping fund a life-saving heart surgery for an Iraqi kid: http://www.buyshoessavelives.com/), and failed at the pronunciation of some new Kurdish phrases (Pexosh halim benasinit).

At the conclusion of our first foray into the bazaar, we grabbed another bus back to the bridge (Xesro Hal?) and walked back to the Courtney's (who are amazing hosts, by the way). Joshua T. and I went to the market and got Jess some ground beef, and then we all ate a big dinner together. After that we had some great, intimate fellowship and listened to most of Joshua G.'s life story- such a cool guy, honored to be working with him.

Tomorrow we are going to begin getting more into actual PLC work, which I am very excited about.

Much more to come, but for now I need sleep! In the meantime, please check PLC's new Remedy Mission- an incredible opportunity to help kids and communities in Iraq like we never have before!




Much love from Iraq,

Alex

Monday, May 10, 2010

Bullet Points


This post is not directly about work with PLC or Iraq, but it is certainly related. I hope you will read it and if you have thoughts about it I would love to hear them- comment or email me at alex@preemptivelove.org

--

Finishing exams for the year means, among other things, that I can finally start reading books of my choosing. Today I started (started again would be more accurate) Women, Poverty and AIDS: Sex, Drugs and Structural Violence. I made it to page ten, sitting in a cozy and trendy coffee shop in Atlanta drinking a $3 soy latte, when I leaned back in my chair and actually thought about what I was reading.

The story of "Darlene" occupies about three pages in the book. Those three pages contain more suffering and struggle than I will ever be able to truly understand. As I looked back at my cute red reading journal with the picture of a kitty on the cover and little paw prints lining each page, I realized I had reduced Darlene's already condensed three pages into a few bullet points:


"Darlene"
-African American woman from Harlem (b. 1955)
-Mother of 4
-Stepbrother, Stepfather, Husband all die within a year (HIV/AIDS related infections)
-Two friends (her children's godparents) die in same year (HIV/AIDS related infections)
-Three oldest children taken into foster care so she can try to care for her youngest who is very ill (suspected HIV/AIDS)
-Youngest child dies (still same year). Her words: "He was three years old. It took him six months to die."
-Becomes addicted to crack, hits "rock bottom," homeless. Later enrolls herself in a detoxification program and is diagnosed with AIDS.

Now about this point is where I would plan to say "I'm not writing this to try and make anyone feel depressed or break everyones heart" ...but maybe I am. Perhaps we need to have our hearts broken more often. You (or I if I were reading this) might say: "We all know the world has suffering and sadness and that AIDS, Congenital Heart Disease, etc. are terrible." Certainly we do. But do we know these things are terrible because we know that 40+ million people worldwide have HIV/AIDS or that thousands of children are stuck waiting in line for life saving heart surgery in Iraq, or do we know that these things are terrible because we realize that every single one of those people, every single one of those kids, their families, their friends, have a different story of suffering and struggle?

The vast majority of these people don't and will never have even a few bullet points, let alone three still insufficient pages in an anthropological volume. They are reduced to being part of an aggregate statistic. Their story, feelings, and trials are not even a number, they are part of a number. More than forty million unique, heart breaking narratives of unique, invaluable human beings become "40+ million people worldwide have HIV/AIDS."

Please understand that I am not speaking ill of health statistics, they are extremely useful and necessary, what I am wondering is what the lives of all of us who "know about" and hate this suffering would look like if whenever we saw these statistics we thought about the individual people behind them- their stories, their feelings, their families, their lives. And to take it one step further, what if we viewed these people as our own friends, brothers, sisters, mothers, or children? I suspect there would be much more willingness, and much more urgency to help those that we know are suffering.

Now I know that I certainly can't, and I don't imagine that any person living today can truly comprehend worldwide suffering of billions on the individual level. Even trying to can become overwhelming very quick. So what do we do then? I think that is a question everyone has to answer for themselves- but I do have a suggestion: Start by trying to understand the struggles and suffering faced by one or a few individuals, and try to really love them as yourself. There are myriad opportunities for this: consider Lawen and Nivar, two kids in Iraq who need surgery to fix their hearts.

Lawen


Nivar

You can read about Lawen and Nivar, as well as the many other children PLC works with, on the Preemptive Love Coalition Blog. You can support and love these kids by helping fund life-saving heart surgery for them in Iraq.

Another great organization is Partners in Health. Here is their vision, copied from the PIH website:
The PIH Vision: Whatever it takes
At its root, our mission is both medical and moral. It is based on solidarity, rather than charity alone. When a person in Peru, or Siberia, or rural Haiti falls ill, PIH uses all of the means at our disposal to make them well—from pressuring drug manufacturers, to lobbying policy makers, to providing medical care and social services. Whatever it takes. Just as we would do if a member of our own family—or we ourselves—were ill.

The founder of Partners in Health, Dr. Paul Farmer, is one of the editors and authors of the book-Women, Poverty and AIDS-that tells Darlene's story. Speaking again of Darlene, my thoughts tonight interrupted me from writing the last bullet in my journal. I have since added it, and it reads:
"-Now visits her 2 children who live near her every day, and son who lives in New Jersey every week."

The final sentences of Darlene's story in Women, Poverty, and AIDS read:
"She says she'll see them this way until she dies. She only hopes she doesn't linger."

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Late update, and LINKS!

Hey friends,

So when I said "tonight" in my last post I actually meant "next week." I promise that I will be more regular on my updates when I'm overseas and the real work starts.

I've been strung out between preparations, finals, lab reports, etc. -And that's all the complaining/excuses I will make because I know no one wants to hear it!

Fundraising has been going great! Thanks so much to all of you who have contributed. Really every bit of financial support means so much.

Please check out the pages of my new friends and fellow interns:
(interns if you have something I haven't linked send it to me!)


Also, everyone please check out and follow the PLC blog:
http://preemptivelove.org/blog/

And next time you are looking at buying some new shoes, why not help save a live in the process? - http://buyshoessavelives.com/
Profits fund life-saving heart surgeries for Iraqi kids.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Quick update

Hey everyone,
Just a quick update before class. I've been super busy between preparing for this summer and fundraising and schoolwork, so I haven't been able to post much yet, but I did make this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBwanQicn-k

Tonight I'll provide a longer update of what is going on right now!

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Guest Posts

Occasionally there may be posts on this blog from a best friend of mine who will be traveling and studying in Turkey, and later, Palestine. Until we know more about this person's arrangements and security situation they will just be referred to as M (yes, like the old lady in James Bond).

M's posts may also include personal stories, thoughts, sights, etc.

M's internet access will be more variable than mine so they may occasionally transcribe past written journal entries here for you all to read.

First Post: About this blog

Hey everyone!
This blog will serve as an online journal of my time preparing for, during, and after my internship in Sulaymaniyah (Silêmanî), Iraq, and Istanbul, Turkey. I will be working for the Preemptive Love Coalition to help Kurdish and Iraqi children with congenital heart disease (CHD) recieve life-saving heart surgery which must, at this time, be performed in Istanbul. PLC also works to facilitate dialogue and reconciliation between what have been traditionally "at-odds" groups. You can read all about PLC's goals, values, and methods on their website.
In conjunction with the goals of and concurrent with my internship at PLC, I will be conducting anthropological research on how the local community percieves CHD, and what the local perspective is about the lack of access to medical resources for treating CHD. My research is under the guidance of the fantastic Dr. Cassandra White of Georgia State University.

This journal will primarily be a space for me to share personal experiences, thoughts, sights, and stories from my time as an intern with PLC. I will also be posting links to the blogs, journals, or websites of other interns, PLC, and even some of the kids we work with! I may post limited updates on the progress of my research as well.

I hope that you will continue to check back often and that you will find this journal to be both educational and an enjoyable read!